We flew to Athens and following a Sunvil transfer to Tolon for one night, we hired a car and drove down the tiptop motorway to the South Peloponnese through Kalamata, Kardimili and Stoupa to the tiny fishing village of Aghios Nikalos.

Aghios Nikolaos Harbour

The Harbour  is a 5 minute walk from the Stephanou Inn  where we stayed and sampled the excellent hospitality of the owner, Angelique.  The rooms are air

Stephanou Inn

conditioned and spacious, very well appointed and comfortable with each studio/apartme

The pool at the Stephanou Inn

nt having its own terrace or balcony.  The pool is beautifully clean and has a shallow pool on the terrace above alongside a jacuzzi.

On our second morning, under the shade of the garden verandah, Angelique served all the guests with a breakfast which would have been an acceptable feast for Aphrodite not just us holiday makers! Alongside the traditional Greek yogurt and array of fresh produce, Angelique baked Cheese Pies, Fluffy Omelettes, Spinach Pies, Apple Strudel and more.  I was so overwhelmed I forgot to take a photo!  She is such an excellent cook as well as a fun hostess.

Bougainvillaea

Aghios Nikolaos has a great selection of tavernas sitting alongside the harbour wall all selling locally caught fish, vegetables from the area/gardens, local rose wine and traditional

Aghios Nikolaos Harbour towards Taygete Mountains

dishes.  It’s quiet and ideal for those not wishing to rock the night away to throbbing drums and discos.

Hire a car to drive along the mixed coast/mountain roads to the Diros Caves which you can explore as the guides steer you through tunnels

Diros Caves

and caves on their narrow boats.  Marvel in the clear waters beneath you and sparkling stalagtites and stalagmites surrounding you

Inside Diros Caves

creating their own softly silent world.  Emerge into the glorious sunlight to the view across the Oitylo bay .

Oitlyo Bay

Travel north to Stoupa, the nearest town to Aghios Nikolaos, where there are amazing sunsets across the harbour and bay .

Bicycles can be hired in Aghios Nikoloas or Stoupa and the cycle path goes alongside the sea

then through the olive groves .    It takes about 15-20 mins to cycle (nearer an hour to walk in the hot summer sun)  and there’s only one steepish bit!  Cycle past Stoupa’s main beach with its imported golden sand along the sea front awash with tavernas of all sizes serving local dishes with added chips (if that’s what you crave) to the more secluded stony beaches further round the shoreline . 

Hire a taxi and explore the mountain villages where as often as not, the local cafe owner holds the key to the village churches awash with amazingly decorated walls from centuries ago.  The doors are locked not to keep out thieves but to prevent the sunlight entering continually and causing the vibrant colours to fade.  The village square is the centre of the community.  Upper Milia has an amazing Olive tree

Upper Milia Village Square

dominating the square and providing excellent shade in the hot summer months.

View from Pyrgos

Follow the road to Pyrgos which must hold the tiniest museum ever with artefacts found in the village over hundreds of years.  There are certainly sum items one wouldn’t expect to find in a small Greek mountain village!   You’ll have to visit it for yourself.

We didn’t manage to schedule in a visit to Ancient Messinia but I understand the tour is excellent with a fair amount of walking and a lot of knowledge to absorb.

We did manage to eat out in Stoupa and listen to local resident/historian/restauranteur, Voula, as she spoke about the Sour Dough bread she still makes that was the staple food made by the village wives in huge batches once a week to keep the family fed.

Voula and the Bread Oven

It’s worth trying at home with any artisan loaf – slice it reasonably thick, toast then drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with a pinch of salt and a smattering of oregano.  Absolutely delicious!

All in all, we had a brilliant holiday.  Swimming in the sea was something I hadn’t done since a child in Cornwall and it was freezing!  Not so, in the clear blue water which was fairly salty so good for just floating.  It was warm in and out of the water.  Fantastic!

Swimming in the Sea off Stoupa